Monthly Archives: January 2012
Out and About in Pai
Pai is a small town in Mae Hong Son Province, Northern Thailand. It is part of the Mae Hong Son Loop, which is 135km on route 1095 from Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son. The city is named after the Pai river.
Pai Set in a particularly picturesque valley north of Chiang Mai, Pai is a predominantly tourism-oriented town, offering a relaxed atmosphere with a broad traveller and backpacker scene. The town’s permanent residents are a seemingly harmonious mix of Western hippies and Thai rastas which gives the place a unique vibe which is appealing even if it isn’t authentic.
A sudden boom in guest house and bar construction from 2006 onwards has resulted in a great deal of spare capacity in the off season.— There has been a large increase in Thai people visiting after Pai was featured in a romantic Thai film. [1] It can be hard to find a room during the busy season (Oct-Feb). There are now around 350 guest houses and hotels in Pai, and the city center has transformed into containing western style restaurants, souvenir shops, and bars that cater largely to the now significant influx of tourists and package tours.
Whilst the growth of Pai has been rapid and more or less every farm in the valley seems to offer bungalows, development so far has been largely tasteful and the town remains relatively serene during low season.
Getting around Pai
Pai town itself is compact and best explored on foot.
For exploring further afield, bicycles (40-100 baht/day) and motorbikes (from as little as 80 baht/day) can be rented from many agents along the main street. As the roads around Pai are steep and obtaining a decent mountain bike with fully functioning gears is surprisingly difficult, motorbike is definitely the better option if you can ride one. Suggestions in guidebooks that Ban Santhichorn and Lisu Village might be reached on foot are optimistic.
Motorbike and 4wd taxis are also readily available.
You’ll also want a motorbike if you’re planning on staying in some of the outlying bungalows in the valley around the town.
aYa Services offer an hour’s free motorbike rental to those arriving on their minivans to help them look for accommodation.
The town itself has no special sights; most people come simply for the relaxed atmosphere. Nearby attractions include hot springs and waterfalls, villages and a hilltop temple.
Chinese village (Santichon). Village settled by Yunnanese hill-tribes who crossed the border in the middle of the 20th century to escape Communist rule. Shops selling different Chinese teas with varying health properties, and other interesting oddities include a human-powered Ferris wheel. Well worth a look, even as a brief stop on the way to Mo Paeng waterfall.
Getting to Pai
Getting in By road
Route 1095 which connects Pai with Mae Hong Son (50km as the crow flies, but approx. 110km by road) and Chiang Mai (135km) is a very scenic route through the mountains which takes several hours (but worth it). It’s a steep and windy drive, with lots of curves, so take a plastic bag and some motion-sickness pills if you need them.
By motorcycle
Route 1095 isn’t as bad as people make it out to be. There isn’t much traffic and you can hear the cars and trucks coming. If you’re a little adventurous, rent a motorcycle in Chiang Mai and make the ride up to Pai. You can stop at the waterfalls and small towns along the way, and you’ll really enjoy the trip, as opposed to being motion sick in a bus for hours, and being forced to stop at the driver’s friends restaurants. The scenery is absolutely gorgeous and being on a bike makes you feel like part of the mountains. The locals will think you’re crazy, and the construction crews get really excited when you come through. Make sure to take some warmer clothing on your bike, as it tends to get a bit chilly in the higher portions of the ride. As a novice rider, expect the trip to take around 5 or 6 hours, including stops at sites and restaurants along the way. aYa Service [2] offers one way rentals from Chiang Mai to Pai (or vice versa) with luggage delivery for free (as of May 2010). They will keep your passport and send it along with any baggage to aYa in Pai.
By bus
Buses and minibuses go to Chiang Mai (Arcade terminal) and Mae Hong Son. Regular public buses take around 4 hours and charge about 80 baht; minibuses take around 3 hours and tickets (sold by travel agencies) cost about 160 baht. One strategy is to get to Pai using the public bus so that you can get an idea as to how winding the road is and then you can decide if you want to splash out and get the mini bus back to Chiang Mai.
To feel less travel sick and save some money take the regular public bus. The scenery is lovely and the winding roads are much easier on one’s stomach if you take things slowly.
From Chiangmai: Local Bus from Chiang Mai to Pai leaves the Arcade Bus Station, five trips during a day (07:00, 08:30, 10:30, 12:30, 16:00). The trip takes some 3 hours and there is a comfort stop at the small half way village of Mae Sae (very good Northern sausages and traditional chicken curry noodle soup available as well as other necessities food water toilets (B3 to use them, as at all bus stations in Thailand!) et cetera). Bus trip costs as at Nov 2010 B150.
Minibuses and Small passenger trucks (song taew) carrying a dozen people also leaves from the bus station as often as there are sufficient passengers or full paying passenger. (cost of private hire is approximately 1200 or share for approximately 150 Baht). The rear seats approximately 10 people and is open air. The view and wind in your face is pleasant, but not the occasional exhaust fumes.
By plane
The nearest domestic airport is in Pai. Kan Airlines [3] operate one or more daily flights between Chiang Mai and Pai, depending on the season. Flying time is 25 minutes. Passengers can make reservations and purchase tickets through the airlines’ websites, their call centres or with a travel agent.
Pai Canyon
Pai Canyon (Kong Lan), (signposted from the Chiang Mai road; approx 6km from Pai). Somewhat optimistically described as Pai’s answer to the Grand Canyon, it could more accurately be described as a narrow red ridges with steep-sides valleys either side filled with pine and dipterocarp forests. The steep 50m drop either side and stunning views over the surrounding countryside are impressive, but you’ll need to be careful here – the path is extremely narrow in some places and requires a scramble in others. A set of steps up to a viewing platform provides the safest way to admire the scenery and the canyon makes the perfect spot for a sunset.
Pai WWII Memorial Bridge
WWII Memorial Bridge, (on the road to Chiang Mai, approx 8km from Pai). The original bridge here was built by the occupying Japanese. The current steel truss bridge which sits alongside the present main road was assembled in its current position rather more recently, but as with Pai’s “canyon”, the bridge invites very loose comparisons with the infamous Bridge over the River Kwai.
Pai Waterfalls
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Mo Paeng, (west of Chiang Mai past Santichon). A little more accessible than most of Pai’s waterfalls, this multi-tiered waterfall flows through a verdant green valley and is popular for its pools to swim in. The upper section of this waterfall is a natural water slide during the dry season. The rocks are smooth, just find a small section and slide on down like the locals do!
Pam Bok – on the road to Chiang Mai before Pai Canyon. Nice secluded waterfall with high cliffs surrounding it, making this a very cool place to escape the heat. Go for a relaxing bathe in the shade during the dry season.
Pai Adventure Motorbike Tours
Adventure Motorbike Tours
Whether it is your first time biking off road or you are already an experienced offroad biker then you have to check out these boys.
They are local to Pai and know the back tracks like the back of their hands offering you a unique range of road and dirt bike tours throughout the spectacular mountain provinces of Northern Thailand, a true biker’s paradise.
They are a jointly run English and Thai company whose English guides have a combined 20 years of riding experience all over Mae Hong Son province including the famous Mae Hong Son loop. They have an intimate knowledge of the roads, trails, landscapes and culture that will make the difference between an average and a great biking holiday!
Adventure Motorbike Tours
Their routes are carefully selected to provide the most exciting journey through the most magnificent scenery Northern Thailand has to offer.
Explore this hugely rich and expansive natural environment with its soaring mountains, deep valleys, perfectly terraced rice fields and cascading waterfalls that are guaranteed to take your breath away. CLICK HERE to check out their Website.
Pai Zip Line Adventure
Pai Zip Line Adventure, tessaban 1, 58130 Pai, ☎ +66895596267 (paizipline@hotmail.com, fax: +66895596267), [4]. Taking glamorous adventure in an extensive forest and fog tri-season. The exiting flight with the 14 station canopy 2-2,5 hours is ending at the beautiful Pam Bok waterfall 8 km out of Pai where you can cool down. 850 THB.
Pai Elephant Treking
Elephant Trek. For several years now, travellers have enjoyed riding an elephant and concluding the trip with a romp in the Pai River. For this ‘adventure’, take as little as possible – you’ll be enjoyably wet as the elephant is encouraged to shower you. Some operators – and there are several – are willing to take photos of you while you enjoy the elephant antics in the river.
Pai Natural Hotsprings
Tha Pai hot springs, (signposted from the Chiang Mai road). Bathing here is supposed to have therapeutic properties but you’ll want to save it for a cool day. Sulphuric water bubbles out of these hot springs at temperatures of up to 80 degrees celsius and simple baths have been created where the springs meet a stream which cools temperatures to bearable levels. A short marked forest trail takes you through the compact national park more noticeable for its smells than its sights. 200THB.
Pai Tubing
Tubing. Floating down river on an inflated rubber tube has long been a favourite pasttime of South East Asian backpackers, and the gentle current of the Pai river and attractive scenery make this a good spot to try. Unlike the more famous Vang Vieng in Laos, the Pai river isn’t lined with raucous bars playing loud music, which some may consider more a blessing than a curse.
Pai Whitewater Rafting
Whitewater Rafting. Some of Thailand’s most spectacular rapids are found between Pai and Mae Hong Song, and a few operators offer both one and two day rafting trips. One and two day trips are possible.
Pai Restaurants
For such a small town, there’s an astonishing number of restaurants, most of them catering for needs/tastes of foreign travellers but also including a wide range of Thai regional cuisine.
Good Life – Veggies and vegans will love this place. It serves organic and vegetarian foods at decent prices. It’s not half bad either. The delicious breakfasts are great value.
Kin J – This little vegetarian restaurant between the main traffic light and the afternoon market serves a selection of purely vegetarian food daily. Get there early, as it’s mostly sold out by mid-afternoon. It’s only 25 baht for brown rice and two dishes.
Na’s Kitchen – Debatably some of the best Thai food in town. Na still works in the kitchen everyday, serving delicious northern food to tourists and Thais. She speaks great English, and will even teach you a bit of Thai if you ask nicely. Na’s is always a favourite of the long-stay travellers and the ones returning for a second, or third go at Pai.
Peace of Pai, (on the edge of town on the road to Mae Hong Son), ☎ 08 9955 4548 or 08 2182 2383. Homegrown organic food is grown here but the main attraction is the postcard-perfect view from the upper floor terrace. Hemp clothing is sold downstairs, which may or may not fully explain the prominent “THC” signs
The Thai local restaurant of choice. Find it directly opposite the Pai District Office. Very few westerners to be found, but the menu is in English. Excellent Thai salads and sticky rice.
Curry Shack – Order a curry served in a coconut!
Charlie & Lek’s – The vegetables used in the cooking are grown fresh on their own farm and the bar has a wonderful relaxed and romantic atmosphere. Located on the road to Chiang Mai, just before the police station. Look out for a sign with the restaurant logo – We Love Lettuce! Thai food is 30-70 baht a plate. They also offer cooking classes for 750 baht a day.
Witching Well – Wide selection of all types of food, including some great western dishes and amazing shakes. Try the apple pancake, it’s to die for.
Pai Bar’s
This is a subject that I feel qualified to comment on. After 6 years of market research and stumbling out of all the establishments mentioned below at one time or another. I’m sure you can find your ideal bar in Pai, or try them all. A beer in each will set you up for your Trek tommorow.
There are many bars, selling beers and cocktails especially around the main Town square. There’s a wide choice of live music, typically involving Thai bands playing their way through reggae classics.
Late night venues are found clustered on the fringes of town – across the bridge on the eastern fringe and on the road to Chiang Mai on the west.
” Almost Famous” is a the Bar to be seen in, a hang out for a great many of the long term expats and travelers alike. A lively atmosphere with a huge collection of amazing cocktails. The outragious owner will keep you entertained all night with off the wall sense of humour. An ideal evening starter to lead you up to the late night allnight Bars. Find it half way along Soi 1, you can’t miss it.
50 Satang Bar, next to Mio’s Restuarant at the bus station. My own personal favourite Bar in Pai you can find me there most nights. A tiny place it’s rough as rats, falling apart, with uncomfortable furniture, which isn’t suprising as it was the first “Thai Herbal Whisky Bar” in Pai opened in 1986. It is a great spot to “Watch Pai go by ” just sit with a cold beer and take it all in, a lovely little spot to suck in the atmosphere, while listening to some great music, again i’m biased on that point as most of the music they play is mine, well if i’m gonna sit there i might as well listen to my own tunes. See you there.
Bamboo Bar, Raddamrong Rd (across the bridge on the eastern edge of town). Bamboo-floored venue perched on the riverside next to the other late night venues. Open until late, cozy atmosphere and good food
Bebop Bar, (on the edge of town on the main road to Chiang Mai).Probably the most well known late night Bar in Pai. It doesn’t get busy till about midnightish but they have live music everynight, a great house band, and regular big name bands and musicians from Bangkok and Chiang Mai. A busy lcoal haunt that travelers soon discover, a perfect way to lead up to going across the bridge to the real late nighters.
Don’t Cry Bar, Raddamrong Rd (across the bridge, next to Bamboo bar). Mostly open-air bar with fireshows, reggae music and pool table. Fills up later in the evening.
Edible Jazz, (about 50m from the junction next to Wat Pa Kam). Varied live music in the evenings in a relaxed atmosphere.
“C – Bar” or as i like to call it “The Pink Flamingo” is a great little bar. next to the main traffic lights near ” Amido’s Pizza Restuarant” The music is so varied that there is something for everybody, spendng an hour or two with the owner egg, or aek. which every way you want to pronounce it, will leave you with a great feeling. Meeting loads of the expat locals, as well as the Thai locals, you will have a great evening, leading to a great night in Pai.
Situated next door to “C Bar” you will find “Inspire Gallery Cafe.” Though not a bar it is basically the testuarant for C Bar. Serving some great Western food, (try the fish and chips) Buy your beer at “C Bar” and sit in “Inspire” or vice versa, neither of the owners will have a problem with that. Well worth checking out for a decent meal…….
Buffalo Hill is a cool Bar / Restaurant at the School end of soi 1 near the bridge. Great live music every night, Open mike nights, Delicious food and Cosy fires at night. Great bar to enjoy the evening, meet fellow travelers and enjoy the laid back chilled out atmosphere.
Reggae Bar is on the road to Chiang Mai, just past Ting Tong. This hard to find bar is the place for hippie hang outs. Look for the people sitting around a camp fire with acoustic guitars and djembe drums. Live music every night sometimes provided by the customers – feel free to bring along your own instrument!
Yellow Sun Bar Great hangout with good selection of music, a newly built stage for great live show’s, a pool table, with friendly staff. The owner Book is a great guy and will point you in the right direction for getting around Pai.
The pre-night popular hangout with most of the traveling crowd. You are sure to enjoy it.
Pai Rooms
There’s an abundance of guesthouses in Pai, most of them in the budget range (a bungalow goes for around 100-500 baht depending on amenities included). Mid-range options are available and there are now even luxury hotels, such as The Quarter.
At the bus station there is a map of Pai or pick up a copy of the “Pai Explorer” a great up-to-date map of the Town and surrounding Area. Get this as it will show you the location of most of the guest houses. There is also a discount for motorbike rental.
If your accommodation is far away from the two main streets of bars, be careful if walking alone of the packs of dogs that roam the empty streets at night. They do get territorial and intimidating, so if you come across them then remember to keep a safe distance away and make noise to scare them away.
Heading out of town there are swarms of bungalow setups.
For accommodation with lots of character try out a bamboo hut on the river. Head east from the bus station and either take the first left or continue straight. Either way you’ll reach a bamboo bridge. Across the bridge you’ll find plenty of cheap accommodation (about 100-400 baht per night).
One Handed Bikers 